Where to Stay in South Tyrol: Castel Fragsburg
Castel Fragsburg (Castel Verruca in Italian) is a five star hotel nestled in the Dolomites of South Tyrol, Italy's most northeastern region on the edge of Austria. It's a small, luxurious Relais & Chateaux hotel that dates back to the 1700s when it was a hunting lodge for nobles. Castel Fragsburg is perched high in the mountains and overlooks the alpine city of Merano in the valley.
“Step through the gateway and you leave everyday life behind to rediscover what it means to breathe. Lose yourself in the stunning mountain panorama to a glass of wine on the terrace. Or tune in to the sounds of nature as you recline on a canopy bed in the enchanted castle gardens.”
My family and I took the four-hour drive from Milan to Castel Fragsburg and stayed for two nights from October 31-November 2, 2017. In order to reach the hotel, you have to drive up an adrenaline-inducing, stereotypically small Italian road winding along the mountainside. You'll pass by multiple vineyards, orchards, stables, and farms along the way.
The hotel only has twenty suites, all of which are uniquely decorated. My neutral-toned, sunlit suite had a wooden balcony with beautiful views over the Etsch Valley and the Alps, a large marble bathroom, and a comfy Austrian-style bed: two duvets, one bed (my favorite). And the large, complimentary bottle of local apfelsaft (apple juice) was SO GOOD.
Castel Fragsburg is a nature and relaxation oriented hotel. Just a few of the outdoor activities you can do while staying there are hiking, mountain biking, horseback riding, swimming, and skiing.
It’s easy to explore some of the natural beauty of South Tyrol with Castel Fragsburg as your homebase. Hiking trails surround the hotel and many lead to secret waterfalls within walking and biking distance. But if you’re willing to adventure farther, there are lots of stunning day trip destinations like…
The Instagram-famous, Lago di Braies, is a two hour drive from the hotel. It’s considered the most beautiful mountain lake in South Tyrol. Depending on the season, the crystal-clear water reflects vivid shades of blue and turquoise. Summer is the most popular time for tourists to visit the lake for swimming, paddle-boating, and hiking.
Val di Funes, a valley with unreal views of the Dolomites, is only about an hour drive from Castel Fragsburg. It’s known as one of the “Alpine Pearls.” A tiny town in the valley called Santa Maddalena is the best spot for iconic views of the mountain range.
The hotel's spa is also a wonderful way to spend time at Castel Fragsburg. One late afternoon, I had a reservation at the alchemistic spa for a wooden tub bath on the balcony. The tub was filled with spring water, rose petals, and mallow and had the same panoramic views as my room. It sounds hard to believe but this was honestly one of the most unforgettable things I’ve ever done.
One of the mornings, we rented the hotel's electric mountain bikes and went for a ride through the forest and vineyards. Along the way, we stopped at a waterfall, a small farm which doubled as a restaurant, and multiple breathtaking overlooks. On one trail, we heard the ringing of cowbells and suddenly dozens of sheep came roaming toward us from around the corner and followed us to their farm further down the mountain!
One evening, we drove fifteen minutes from Castel Fragsburg down into the valley to explore Merano, a small city of about 40,000 residents. Merano is not well-known by Americans, but it’s a popular destination for European tourists seeking wellness, clean air, and leisure activities. The city gives off a blend of Austrian, German, and Italian elements, having been influenced by the surrounding countries for centuries. We walked around the downtown area and decided to get dinner at a small restaurant to try the local cuisine. I ate a typical dish, canederli, which are dumplings made with bread, eggs, milk, butter, and grated cheese and float in a broth.
Cool fact: In this region of Italy, German is the primary language, and many residents are not fluent in Italian.
Castel Fragsburg’s restaurant is famous among tourists and locals seeking gourmet food combined with mountainous views. The award-winning menu is considered to be a fusion of Alpine and Mediterranean. All of the ingredients used are organic, and many vegetables and fruits are grown directly on location in the hotel’s garden surrounding the property. The restaurant serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner, but it’s recommended to make a reservation due to its popularity.
This was my first time in the South Tyrol region, and although I was only there for two days, it has undoubtedly become one of my favorite places in Italy. It’s so unique from the rest of the country—the language, the landscapes, the architecture, the food, just to name a few distinctions. The unreal scenery of South Tyrol is unforgettable and just makes me want to pack up and move there. It almost feels like another world, secluded from the rest of hectic and restless Italy.
To simply describe my experience at Castel Fragsburg, it would be relaxing, magical, and unforgettable.
